Katy, who grew up in the Finger Lakes region of New York and spent years in San Francisco and Chicago, was a photo editor; Richard worked in the financial sector and was a university educator. After reading a lot of Wendell Berry, as well as The Omnivore’s Dilemma and Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, she picked up Compassionate Carnivore by Catherine Friend, which convinced her to change the way people thought about the animals they ate. Believing America wasn’t going to become a vegetarian culture, Katy wanted to raise animals for meat with compassion and care, and educate others about making better food choices.

The couple left Chicago and moved into a trailer on their 170-acre property just north of Bozeman, Montana, while they fixed up their 100-year-old farmhouse. Now, they raise certified organic, grass-fed lamb and also have laying hens at Willow Spring Ranch.

“It’s very hard on butcher day when I drive the lambs to our processor, but I am also very proud of the lives I have given them and the healthy food I am providing families,” Katy says.

Modern Farmer: Why do you consider yourself a modern farmer?

Katy Harjes: We didn’t come from a ranching family; we started this endeavor with no previous knowledge of animal husbandry, no equipment and no herding dogs. But we did have a few local ranchers who answered questions and our vet was incredibly generous with his knowledge and time. We read and researched all sorts of information on the Internet and incorporated innovative methods where appropriate. We made mistakes and used them as learning opportunities. We listened to our clients and the community, improving our approach while maintaining the standards we set in caring for the animals and the land.

Eight years later, we practice non-lethal predator control by employing six livestock guardian dogs. We are certified organic by the USDA and grassfed by the AGA. We have worked with other land owners in the area to turn their land organic, creating a more healthy and sustainable environment. We continue to care greatly for the welfare of our animals and the health of our land. In the end this all results in a healthy, delicious product of the highest quality.

MF: Why is it important to you to support local agriculture?

KJ: I am in favor of supporting pretty much local everything! But buying as much food as you can locally means it will be fresher and taste better. You will be supporting the local community by keeping your dollars close to home and investing in the future of the farms of your area. Local means more food diversity and the reduction of environmental impacts as well.

MF: If you could grow or raise any food or animal, what would it be and why?

KJ: Well, besides my sheep (which on most days I’m truly happy raising) I would love to grow avocados and papaya. They are not exactly local or seasonal in southewest Montana but I love them! Imagine being able to head out to the greenhouse and pick one fresh off the tree?

MF: What’s your favorite vegetable?

KJ: Oh, it really depends on the season or what I’m able to get or pick fresh. Right now I’m having a fling with broccoli roasted in a very hot oven with extra-virgin olive oil and Malden’s [salt]. But I’d have to say my steady loves are parsley and lacinato kale. I make my own version of the Jerusalem cookbook’s parsley salad with minced parsley and kale, walnuts, feta, za’atar, sumac, lemon, and EVOO. I would eat it every day if my husband didn’t cry uncle.

MF: If you could give other modern farmers any advice, what would it be?

KJ: I know quite a few younger people who are so passionate about agriculture in many forms but do not have the funds or land to get started. I also know older farmers and ranchers whose children are not interested in taking over the family business – or they don’t have children to continue their work. If this is holding you back from getting started, keep trying to find that match. The other piece of advice is to always try to find balance and make time for yourself. It’s easy to work so hard you forget why you started it all in the first place. Burnout is very real.

MF: Do you have a farming/agricultural hero? Why do you admire them?

KJ: Yes, I do – about 250 of them. It’s a group called Women of the Dirt. We are a collection of about 250 women in the southwest Montana area who ranch, farm, have small gardens and large, live a back-to-the-land life or are just trying to live a life of lower impact. We belong to a listserv and share our bounty, support, knowledge, and humor. I am astonished every day at the passion these women have for their lives, families and their community. The growing season in southwest Montana is short and it can snow in August. We live among mountain lions and wolves and coyotes. We are far from urban markets that are willing to pay a premium for our crops and animals. But we are all here trying and thriving and I think that is a very commendable thing.

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