Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy ($65), made with fruit from California’s Anderson Valley, has a tannic structure reminiscent of mature red wine. You’ll taste the apples, but that’s by no means the predominant flavor.
Osocalis Apple Brandy ($80) brings a slightly richer sip, with hints of apple pie, ocean, and smoke. (The smokiness isn’t necessarily from the barrels; it’s mostly just a product of time.)
Clear Creek Eau de Vie de Pomme ($45) has more noticeable oak notes and plays well in an Apple Manhattan: Mix two parts apple brandy, one part high-quality sweet vermouth, and a dash of bitters, then pour over ice.