In Season: Apples - Modern Farmer

You can grow them in California, Kansas or Kentucky, but nowhere says “apple harvest” quite like New England (See also: fall foliage, maple sugar, lobster). At Outlook Farm, a scenic Massachusetts farm in the foothills of the Berkshire Mountains, we talked with second-generation owner Brad Morse. Morse is a farmer’s farmer, long on hard work but short on words — until you get him talking about apples.

Modern Farmer: Tell us about your farm.

Brad Morse: We have about 60 acres, fruits and vegetables, some pigs. But 20 acres are just apples.

MF: What kinds?

BM: We have 25 different varieties. There are your standards — Macs, Cortlands, Red and Golden Delicious, Empires. Then we have some of the newer ones, like Fujis, Galas and Honeycrisps. We’ve also got old-fashioned varieties.

MF: Like what?

BM: Northern Spies and Baldwins. People don’t really care about those kinds anymore.

MF: That’s kind of sad.

BM: It is, a bit. We’ve got an 85-year-old Baldwin tree out there, all gnarled, with a hole in the trunk you can crawl through. But still producing! These new varieties, I doubt the trees will make it 30 years.

MF: You offer customers the chance to pick their own apples. Why are people willing to spend more to do all the work?

BM: You know, I’m not 100 percent sure. We’ve got families who’ve been coming for three generations; at some point, it just becomes tradition. I suppose it’s a chance to get out in the orchard, to spend some time outdoors. Plus people are getting interested in where their food comes from.

MF: How was this year’s harvest?

BM: It’s been a very good year. All our coolers are full; we’re running out of bins to put ’em in. We’re still picking Macintoshes, which should have been done by the beginning of October. They’re huge! Still pretty darn good, too. We’re using them for cider.

MF: Tell us about your cider.

BM: We just made 500 gallons today. We start with a Macintosh base, then add other varieties throughout the season for a more complex flavor. I think the [Northern] Spies and Baldwins give really unique taste; they’ve got different tannins. We also add honey, which clarifies and clears the cider.

MF: When is the best cider made?

BM: It starts a little bitter with the first pressing or two. I don’t make it as early as I could; people get turned off when it’s bitter or sour. The best cider is made in January or February. The apples are coming out of storage then, fully matured. They’ve got full sugar content; the cider tastes like syrup.

MF: What do you think of Honeycrisp mania?

BM: It is a real nice eating apple, I’ll give it that. It has a good crunch, light flesh, with that tinge of honey. The amount people pay is ridiculous, but it’s good for us growers. The trees are real funky — more susceptible to diseases like cork spot, calcium deficiencies that lead to spotting, maturing unevenly.

MF: Do you think a new apple will unseat the Honeycrisp?

BM: They’ve got a new one called Snowsweet, developed in Minnesota, that’s supposed to be great. It’s trademarked so I’ll need to pay a lot for it.

MF: Are you going to pay?

BM: Definitely.

(This interview has been edited and condensed.)

Pumpkin Buckwheat Waffles With Sautéed Apples

The recipe comes from Kimberley Hasselbrink, author of the upcoming cookbook Vibrant Food. This recipe is from her award-winning blog, The Year in Food.

Yield: 6 waffles

Brown rice and oat flour is my go-to flour combination. It’s a great balance to the dense, nutty buckwheat flour. The sautéed apples and pecans and maple syrup make this perfectly, essentially fall.

3/4 cup buckwheat flour
1/2 cup brown rice flour
1/2 cup oat flour
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
2 eggs, whisked
1 cup almond milk
3/4 cup pumpkin puree
3 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for cooking
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 small heirloom apples, cored and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon butter
1/3 cup coarsely chopped pecans
Maple syrup

Preheat oven to 200 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, combine all of the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, almond milk, pumpkin puree, butter, and vanilla extract. Slowly pour the wet ingredients into the dry, mixing thoroughly to combine.

Heat your waffle iron now. If using the old-school kind that heats on the stove (as I did), grease the heck out of that thing. It’s the only way to avert a failed waffle. Butter is best for this.

Measure 1/2 cup of the batter and pour into the center of the iron. Close and cook according to manufacturer’s instructions. With a stovetop iron, that would be about 3 minutes per side. After 3 minutes on the second side, carefully open to see if the waffle is golden brown. If yes, it’s ready. Carefully remove the waffle from the heat and place on a plate in your warmed oven. Repeat with the remaining batter.

While the waffles cook, if you’re a good multi-tasker, sauté the apples. In a large skillet, warm the butter over medium heat. When the butter is melty and bubbling, add the apples and toss to coat. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the apples are soft and a little browned, about 4 minutes or so.

To serve, plate the waffle, top with 5 or 6 apple slices, a smattering of pecan pieces, and a generous glug of maple syrup.

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