London’s 3 Hottest Farm-To-Table Restaurants
Jenny Linford profiles three of the UK’s hottest new restaurants: The Dairy, The Grain Store, and The Shed.
The Dairy
15 The Pavement Clapham Old Town, London SW4 0HY
Tel: 0207 622 4165
http://www.the-dairy.co.uk/index.html
Right by Clapham Common, chef-patron Robin Gill and his wife Sarah have set up a convivial bar-cum-restaurant. The name is a nod to the building’s previous history, but it also reflects the craft of food on offer here. Much skillful work lies behind the dishes on the menu, from the freshly-baked malt barley sourdough (which arrives warm from the oven, in a linen bag sewn by Robin’s mum) served with an addictive home-churned, smoked marrow butter to own-smoked cod and heritage tomato salad, garnished with herbs freshly picked from the restaurant’s rooftop kitchen garden. Despite The Dairy’s affable, relaxed vibe, Robin’s cooking offers considerable finesse. A delicious restaurant with heart.
The Grain Store
1-3 Stable Street King’s Cross, London, 4AB
Tel: 020 7324 4422
http://www.grainstore.com/
Behind Kings Cross station, what was once a Victorian warehouse storing grain, has now, as part of the regeneration of this area, been transformed into a high-ceilinged, spacious restaurant, the latest offering from acclaimed chef Bruno Loubet, who mans the open-plan kitchen with panache. Although not vegetarian, vegetables are the star of the seasonal menu here, showcased in a cosmopolitan assortment of dishes, from kimchi dumplings to vegetable paella with garlic and tomato snails. The quality of the carefully-sourced ingredients, such as Charentais melon transformed into gazpacho with elderflowers, shines through, as does the culinary creativity of Loubet. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.
The Shed
122 Palace Gardens Terrace, London, W8 4RT
Tel: 0207 229 4024
http://theshed-restaurant.com/
Showcasing the talents of the three Gladwin brothers ”“ a restaurateur, a chef (trained at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage) and a farmer”“ this lively, informal diner brings a traceable taste of Sussex to London’s fashionable Notting Hill with an admirable family farm to plate enterprise. Ingredients such as own-raised beef or lamb or foraged wild herbs are transformed into tasty ‘mouthfuls’ and slow or fast cooked dishes, from Nutbourne pork scratching to beef carpaccio. Traceability also continues with the wines, sourced from the family’s own Sussex vineyard. Since opening, the restaurant has been busy with happy diners. The boys, and their customers, are having fun and it shows!
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